Read this before you buy a baguette

There is a psychological disorder called the “Paris Syndrome”. This is a real condition where tourists, mostly Japanese, experience dizziness, hallucinations, rapid heartbeat and feelings of anxiety and persecution. These symptoms appear shortly after the tourist arrives in Paris and realizes the Paris they are experiencing is not the City of Lights that they’ve seen portrayed in films and magazines. Many who arrive in Paris are expecting to see a city of top models dressed in couture fashion. They expect everyone to be thin, rich and beautiful, the French to all be charming and helpful and the city to be like a movie set.

It’s a rude awakening when the unsuspecting tourist steps into their first pile of dog poop on the street or encounters a surly waiter or is crammed into a hot, stinky metro carriage at rush hour. This problem is so prevalent that the Japanese embassy in Paris has a 24-hour emergency phone number for their citizens suffering from this phenomenon!

If you don’t believe me, check out this article explaining the “Paris Syndrome”

While I’ve never experienced anything like this, I could understand how someone could have a breakdown when it comes to bread. All of us have the image of the beret wearing Frenchman walking with a baguette under his arm ingrained in our heads. So when one arrives in Paris and tries to say in their best French “une baguette s’il vous plait” they are expecting to eat a piece of the dream. When they bite into something that is often chewy, bland, limp that’s when the heartaches begin. Oh l’horreur! Any good Frenchman knows to order a Tradition (or “tradi”) and not a baguette.

French bread baguette

This is just a plain baguette- avoid if you can

French bread baguette

This is a tradition- see the difference? Gorgeous crust and the odour and taste is incomparable

Within the category of baguette there is a difference between a baguette ordinaire (ordinary) and a baguette de tradition (traditional). A baguette ordinaire is usually of lesser quality; these are the limp bland ones. Bakers often skimp — using industrial flour, letting the dough rise for a shorter period of time and using packaged yeast. The composition of a baguette de tradition is governed by French law (Décret Pain) since 1993 and can contain only four ingredients: wheat flour, water, salt and yeast or levain — a sourdough starter, with no additives or preservatives. It must also be baked onsite.

The “tradi” is often a little shorter and about 20 centimes more expensive. This is a case of quality over quantity! It also has a shorter shelf life, meaning they go stale after 24 hours, but how could anyone keep one around that long?

So, next time you find yourself in a bakery in France make sure to order a “tradi” and bite into the best of traditional French bread baking.

One of my favorite French traditions (no pun intended) is the yearly competition for best baguette de tradition in Paris. The winner receives 4,000 euros and they are the official supplier of baguettes to the President/ Élysée Palace for a year. This year’s winner is Damien Dedun from Paris’ 15th arrondissement, not too far from where I lived for 12 years. The bakery is called Frédéric Comyn and the address is: 88 rue Cambronne, 75015

In case you are interested here is a link to a video (in French) of the making of baguettes de tradition. There is a part at the end of the video where the baker cuts into a fresh “tradi” that is pure ecstasy. It’s a treat for the ears and eyes to watch this video.

baby boy with a French baguette

My favorite future baker

What pairs perfectly with French bread? Cheese of course! Check out my article on French cheese etiquette.

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